Before our first Lisbon trip, we read dozens of guides. They covered the Jerónimos Monastery, the custard tarts, the 25 de Abril bridge views. What none of them told us was the stuff that would have saved us actual time, money, and an alarming number of sore calves. Here it is.
15 Things We Wish We'd Known
1. The hills are no joke
Lisbon is built on seven hills. This sounds picturesque in a travel brochure; it feels like a personal insult on day two when your legs give out on the way to Graça. Use the trams, funiculars (ascensores), and elévador lifts strategically — they exist precisely because the hills are brutal. Do not plan to walk from Baixa to Graça in flip-flops. Not once. Not even at the start of the day.
2. Get a Viva Viagem card immediately
At the airport, at any metro station: €0.50 for the card, then load credit (Zapping) or a 24-hour pass. Single fares without a card are more expensive and the paper tickets are fragile. The Viva Viagem works on metro, bus, tram, funicular, all CP suburban trains, and ferries. You can also use a Navegante Occasional card or simply tap your contactless bank card directly at metro and bus validators — both work as alternatives if you prefer not to carry a separate transit card. There is no reason not to sort out your transport card within the first 30 minutes of arriving.
3. Nobody eats dinner before 8pm
Restaurants open at 7:30pm but you will be alone, or close to it. The kitchen will be ready but the staff will be mentally elsewhere. Prime time is 8:30–9:30pm. If you eat at 7pm because you're jet-lagged or travelling with children, you'll get faster service and a quieter room — which is actually a reasonable trade-off once you accept that you're not going to change Portuguese dinner culture.
4. Tram 28 is not a tour — it's a commute
Take it once, for the experience. It passes through beautiful streets, makes improbable turns through Alfama, and feels like something out of another era. It is also hot, frequently overcrowded, and one of the highest-density pickpocket environments in the city. Keep your phone in your front pocket. Don't stand near the doors with your camera out. Then enjoy the ride. Just don't romanticize it into your primary transport strategy.
5. Sardines are seasonal
Fresh sardines are a June-to-October thing. The rest of the year, what you're eating is frozen — which is fine, but it isn't the same. If you're visiting between November and May and someone recommends the fresh sardines, they either haven't been paying attention or they're being optimistic. Order the bacalhau instead. It is always good, in all seasons, in all restaurants, in all forms.
6. Pastéis de Belém vs. pastéis de nata
Pastéis de Belém is the original bakery, operating since 1837, with the original recipe still a closely guarded secret. Pastéis de nata is the generic name for the custard tart style it invented — now made by every bakery in Portugal. The Belém original has a slightly different (and, to most palates, slightly better) custard and crust ratio. It's worth going to the source. But a pastel de nata from a good Chiado pastelaria is not a consolation prize; it's excellent on its own terms.
7. Uber/Bolt is cheaper than taxis. Always.
Taxis in Lisbon sometimes refuse short rides. Some claim the meter is broken and propose a flat fare. A few try the scenic route on visitors who don't know the city. Uber and Bolt eliminate all of this: fixed price shown before booking, route visible on your phone, driver rating system. The fare is consistently lower than taxis for the same journey. Download both apps before you arrive; Bolt is often cheaper on longer trips.
8. The airport metro goes directly to the centre
Red line from the airport to Alameda, switch to the green line for Baixa-Chiado or Rossío. Total journey: about 30 minutes. Cost: €1.65 with Zapping on a Viva Viagem card. A taxi to the same destination costs €15–20 and takes the same time or longer in traffic. There is no logical argument for the taxi.
9. Tipping is not expected but appreciated
Portugal does not have a strong tipping culture. Rounding up to the nearest euro, or leaving 5–10% for good service, is well-received. Not tipping at all will not cause offence, produce passive aggression, or result in slower service next time. This is liberating after cities where the tip jar faces you on the counter before you've decided if you liked the coffee.
10. Coffee vocabulary matters
Ordering coffee in Lisbon without knowing the terminology will result in small surprises. Um café is an espresso — short, strong, served in a small ceramic cup. Meia de leite is the closest equivalent to a flat white or latte: half espresso, half steamed milk, served in a medium cup. Galão is milkier and served in a tall glass — closer to a café au lait. If you ask for “a coffee,” you will get an espresso. Plan accordingly.
11. Sunday closures are real
Many independent shops close on Sundays. Some restaurants close on Sundays or Mondays (often both, in neighbourhood tascas). Museums commonly close on Mondays. Check opening hours before building an itinerary around a specific shop or restaurant. This sounds obvious but it catches people every week.
12. Pickpockets target Tram 28 and Baixa
The tourist concentration in these areas makes them the obvious choice for opportunistic theft. Standard precautions apply: valuables in front pockets, bag worn across the body and in front, phone not placed on café tables, wallet not in back pocket. This is not unique to Lisbon — it's true of every high-tourism European city. The risk is real but not extreme; most visitors experience nothing. Don't be paranoid, just be sensible.
13. Learn 5 Portuguese words
Locals appreciate the effort enormously, even when the pronunciation is imperfect. The five that will carry you furthest:
- Obrigado (if you're male) / Obrigada (female) — thank you
- Bom dia — good morning (use until about noon)
- Por favor — please
- A conta — the bill
- Desculpe — excuse me / sorry
English is spoken widely in Lisbon, particularly among anyone under 40 and anyone working in hospitality. You will not be stranded without Portuguese. But the five words above will consistently improve your interactions in ways that are disproportionate to the minimal effort required.
14. The Lisbon coast is underrated
Costa da Caparica, 30 minutes south of Lisbon by bus, is one of the longest urban beaches in Europe: 30km of Atlantic coastline, strong surf, beach bars, and almost no tourists who didn't come specifically for the beach. Most visitors never leave the city. Take the ferry from Cacilhas or the direct bus from São Sebastião metro (note: Praça de Espãnha station is currently closed for construction). Go on a weekday. It is worth it at any time of year, not just summer.
15. You'll walk 15–20km per day
Lisbon rewards walking. Almost everything interesting is reachable on foot, the street life is compelling, and the city is small enough that distances feel manageable on a map. Then your phone tells you you've done 18km and your feet have strong opinions about the future. Wear proper shoes — not trainers, not sandals, proper walking shoes with support. Bring blister plasters regardless. The hills are not optional and neither is this advice.